Rules and directions for cutting men's clothes, by the square rule : by which, in a few hours, a person may acquire such a knowledge of the art, as will enable him to cut all sizes and fashions, with the greatest accuracy

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Icopy 1

TAYLOR'S ASSISTANT

FAMI LY'S DIRECTOR,

Comprising Rules and Directions for

CUTTING MEN'S CLOTHES

MULES AND DIRECTIONS

FOR

CUTTING MEN'S CLOTHEkS

BIr THE

SQUARE RULE;

«7 WHICH, IN A FEW HOURS, A PERSON MAV

ACQUIRE SUCH A KNOWLEDGE OF THE ART,

AS WILL ENABLE HIM TO CUT ALL

SIZES AND FASHIONS, WITH THE

GREATEST ACCURACY

timfvtfoM iBKitim

MIDDLEBURYi

PUBLISHED BY AMANDA JONES.

J. W. Copelind, Pridter,

1822,

Bi

DISTRICT OF VERMONT, To wit?

IE IT REMEMBERED, that on the first day of June
*in the forty sixth year ofthe Independence of the United
States of America, Amanda Jones, of the said District,
hath deposited in this office, the title of a book, the right
whereof she claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit :—
" Rules and Directions for cutting men's clothes, by the square rule,
by which any person, in a few hours, may acquire such a knowledge of
the art, as will enable him to cut all sizes and fashions, with the
greatest accuracy," in conformity to the act of the Congress of the
Onited States, entitled " An act for the encouragement oflearniug,
by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books to the authors and
proprietors of sueh copies, during the times therein mentioned*"

JESSE GOVE,
Ckrk of the District of Vermont
A true copy of record, examined and sealed by me,

J. GOVE, Clerk.

f~/f^/.

ADVERTISEMENT.

The superior advantage, which every family,
and, indeed, almost every individual must ex-
perience, from a correct knowledge of the art of
cutting clothes, will readily appear in so fair a
light as to render proof unnecessary. The au-
thor of this little work, although not claiming
the art as her own invention, has, nevertheless,
made considerable improvement on the original
plan, rendering it much easier, and more com-
prehensive. And she feels warranted in assiir-
4 ingthe publick, that the correctness and utility
of this method, has not once been doubted by the
best taylors, or any other persons who have made
themselves acquainted with it : she therefore,
without any further apology, submits it to acarf
did public.

RECOMMENDATIONS.

I hereby certify that I have, for some time past, practised the art of cutting
Znen's clothes by the square rule, I do not hesitate to recommend it as an art
Mghly deserving pufelick encouragement, and I am satisfied a person can ac-
quire a thorough knowledge of the same by a careful perusal of the rules laid *
down in the following pages

WILLIAM SUMNER.

Srainiree^ October 15ih, 1822

We, the subscribers, having examined the method of cutting clothes by the
square rule, as taught by Miss Amanda Jones, do, most cordially, recommend
Jj^i as an able instructor in that valuable art.

SETH EWER, fct^VjJ^
f. BAILEY.
May Iblh, 1822.

This may certify that we have attended to Miss Amanda Jones1 method tff
Slitting clothes by the square rule, and according to the iaformation we have
|ameu o! tu£ srt, T,Z ZSS. fi?£™MQend ^ to be of great utility to the public.

ORWNWpiERf,i Mi*isUrs ofiheGosptf.

This certifies that as far as I have examined the art of cutting men's clothes ^
hy the square rule as taught by Miss Amanda Jones, I can safely recommend jt
as an art deserving general circulation.

€*??, B1RAM MUGGER,

jtftyfofrwy, Oct. 19$, 1822-.

.RUIiES AND DIRECTIONS

FOR
BY THE

SQUARE RULE.

It will be necessary, before we enter upon the
rules, to describe the instruments which will be
useful, and indeed indispensably requisite, for
every person who practises this art,

The first will be a measure of tape or ribbori,
in length sufficient to measure the largest per-
sons ; divided into inches and half inches, and
numbered. 2dly. A two foot rule, one inch in
width, set off into inches, half inches, quarters,
and eights, and numbered each way, 3dly. A
square, each arm one foot in length, set off" into
inches, halves, &c. like the rule* and numbered
''anil wav from the corner,
B

Having provided yourself with the instruments
thus described, together with a pair of shears,
you may proceed to acquire a knowledge of
their use. First in cutting

PANTALOONS.

In cutting this garment, as in all others, your
first step will be to obtain a correct measure of
the person, for whom the garment is intended.

To obtain this, you will, (with your tape or
ribbon measure) begin by measuring from the
waist to the knee, which we shall, in giving an
example, call 15 inches, next measure from the
knee, to the ancle, calling it 7 inches, and next
measure around the waist, say 19 inches, and
allow 2 inches, which makes 21 inches. Lastly,
measure around the knee, which call 1 1 inches.

Having now obtained your measure, you will
lay your cloth upon your table, in such a man-
ner, as to have the nap run to the left hand, and
beginning with your first measure (viz.) from the
waist to the knee, which was 15 inches, lay it off
on the edge of the cloth, making the right hand
the top of the garment, (which, on the draft, be-
gins at the figure 1,) your 15 inches, for the
length from the waist to the knee, will extend to
2 where make a dot. Then extend your measure
for the length to the ancle to 3, which was 7
inches, and draw the line as seen on the draft
from 1 to 3. Next, laying your square on the
line I, 3 with the corner at 1, on the top, draw
the line as from 1 to A, in length exactly ojn.f.

s

fourth your measure round the waist, f which
measure was 21 inches, one fourth of vvhirh
is 5 1-4.) 3dly. Lay off one half of the measure
Irom the wai|t to the knee, as from ltoU, then
with your square, make the line B, C, in length
the same as 1, A, t\wn draw the line A, C 4th
Continue the line B, C, exactly one third, as to
D> from which form the square as seen on the
draft; then making E the centre with a pair of
compasses, or with a small cord held in the tinkers
of one hand at E. extend the other to D witbthe"
other hand, holding therein a piece of chalk, and
describe the curve D, F. 5th. Draw the line G,
for the falls, according to liking, then take off the
corner H, one inch to the corner at 1.

i The size of the leg must now be made bv lay-
ing off with the square, half the measure around
the knee (which was 1 1 inches, the half of which
is 5 1-2 inches) as you see on the draft, from the
dot at 2 to 4 where make another dot as seen at
ngure 4. Proceed next to the size of the ancle,
which is here the same as the knee, by drawing
the line as from 3 to 5 on the draft, then draw
the line from 5 to 4, and lastly mark the curve *>
as seen from 4 to D, according to your judgment,
this completes one of the foreparts of the ear-
ment. &

r" order t0 get the back part, you must lay
the torepart on your cloth, as represented on the
draft. Lay your rule from the corner represented
at JJ, past that at A, and draw the line as from
A>> to f, any convenient length. Then making
the cornef at B, the centre, with a cord as (dl

9

reeled before) describe the curve line I, J at the
top, beginning one inch below figure 1, and con-
tinuing it to intersect the line D, Tat I, which
completes one of the back parts of the garment.
As but one half of any garment is cut by rule?
particular pains should betaken in cutting the
other parts, to lay the two right sides of the clotb
p together.

MEASURING AND CUTTING
A COAT-

For ibis garment, you will first measure a-
round the waist, under a coat, which, in order to
give an example, we shall call 24 inches ; next,
around the breast, say 25 inches. Then, for the
length of the collar, measure from the shoulder
seam, as far forward as you wish your collar to
reach, say 5 inches ; measure around the shoul-
der, say 12 inches, then around the elbow, 9 in-
ches, then the wrist, 8 inches : then measure for
the length of the back, which call 9 inches ; for
the length of the skirts, 12 inches. Lastly, the
length uf the sleeve, first, from the middle* seam
in the back, to the elbow, 13 inches, from thence
4o the wrist, 7 inches.

&

11

Having thus obtained your measure, lay your
cloth, as before directed, and proceed to mark
and cut the

BACK.

It will be most convenient in cutting this, to

* begin upon the further edge of the cloth, taking
care, however, to leave room for the fold. The
first step will be to mark down the length
as from A, to B on the draft, which, according
to the measure taken, is 9 inches. Then, laying
your square on the line thus made, in such a
manner as to have the corner thereof, on the top
at A, and the other arm extending towards you ;
proceed to lay off the proportions as you find
them in the table of proportioning numbers. In
doing this, you will be guided by your measure
around the waist, which, in the present example,
is 24 inches. This number you must find at the
left hand side of the table, whtre you find 24, to

* 25, i, e ; 24, 24 1-2 or 25, inches arousd the
waist, opposite to which, and under the title
back at the top, between the double lines, you
will find your proportioning numbers for this
part of the garment, each number being in a se-
parate square, and numbered at top, Jfet52d, 3d,
4th, 5th. JSow, with your square lying, as a-
bove directed, begin with the 1st IN o. (viz.) 3 * 8
inches, and set it off on the line already drawn,
as from A to the figure 1. Then lay off your
2d No. which is I 3-8 inches, from figure 1 to
figure 2, which will also be the width oft he back
at the bottom, as seen at B, C. Then lay off the

12

distance of the 3d No. across the right hand arm
of the square, (viz.) 2 1-8 inches, for half the
width of the top of the back. Then, with the
square, lying on A, B, draw the line as from 1
to 4 in length as your 4th No. 3 3-8 inches. Then
lay off the 5th No. 3 1-2 inches, as from 2 to 5.
Having proceeded thus far, you will strike the
curves as follows : First, taking the distance be*
tween the figures 2 and 5, with a pair of com*
passes, or with a thread, as has been before
taught, hold one end of it, first, at the figure 4,
then at 3, and with the other form the little cross
as seen at D. Then, making D the centre, strike
the curve as from 3 to 4. In order to strike the
curve 4, 5, you take the distance between 2 and
A, arid hold one end of your cord, first at 4, and
then at 5, form the cross as seen at E, making E
the centre, form the curve as seen at 4, 5. INext
you will take the distance across from C to A,
and holding your hand first at C, then at 5, form
the cross as at F, making this cross the centre,
form the curve 5, C. You will then proceed to lay
down the skirt, the length of which, according to
measure, is to be 12 inches; the width each
side of the back for the folds in the skirt of this
garment, is calculated at about one inch, but it
is common in larger ones to allow 1 1-2 inches.
The slant may vary according to size, and the
top of the back must be hollowed a trifle for the
collar

£

V^f*-*™**"

15

The back of your garment being thus obtain
ad, you will, in the next place, proceed to lay
out and cut the

FOREPART.

In order to do this, you must begin by laying
down your square near the further edge of the
cloth, leaving room at the right hand for the
shoulder, and on the back edge for the fold.
Then taking the back already cut, measuring the
length of that part contained between figure 5,
and the letter C, as seen on the draft thereof,
which is about 5 inches ; mark off that distance
on the further edge of the square, as seen from
A to B, on the draft for the forepart. Then lay
off the line across the other arm of the square
any convenient length as from A, past Br; then
round the corner, as seen on the draft from C to

B, In doing which, you must be governed by
the size of the garment or the shape of tile per'
son, rounding it more as your garment is larger^
and still more for a round shouldered person.
Having done this, take your back again and lay
it upon your cloth in such a manner that the
line, at the figure 5, shall lie exact on the line at

C, on the forepart, and the line 2, 5, forming a
right line with C, Br ; lay your rule on the middle
of the back as at 2, and extending it along the
line, which will now be 2, Br ; proceed to lay oft
your 1st and 2d proportioning numbers, which
you will find in the table opposite to those you
make use of in cutting the back, and which will
come under the title of forepart at the top of the

16

table. The 1st No. you find to be 6 1-8 inches,
which lay off as from figure 2, on the back, to
figure 1, on the forepart. The 2d No. 8 1-8 in-
ches lay off as from 2, on the back, to 2, on the
forepart Then, without moving either the rule
or the back, lay off one half the measure around
the breast, which will be 12 ]-2 inches as to Br,
and at each of these places make a small dot.
Next, lay your square on the line, thus made in
such a manner as to have your 3d No (viz.)
b 7-8 inches on one arm of the square lie exactly
on the corner at A, with the other arm extending
to the right; on this arm against the 3d No. 5 7-8,
make a dot, as at 3. Then lay your square on
the line A, B, with the coiner at B, and the other
arm extending towards you, lay off the Ith No.
(viz.) 3 inches, as at figure 4, and make a dot ;
then draw a short line from 3 towards 4» as seen
on the draft. Take the back again and lay it as
before directed, so that the corner at figure 5, on
the back, shall exactly meet the letter C, on the
forepart ; take the distance between figure 3 on
the back, and figure 4 on the forepart, and with
your cord one end held at 4,, with the other cross
the short line proceeding from 3 towards 4, as
seen at D. Then, with the back lying as before,
lay your rule in such a manner as that the side
next towards you, shall lie exactly at 2, on the
back, and the opposite side thereof, on the center
of the cross atD, draw the line, as seen from E
to F, any convenient distance. From the center
of the cross, and on the line towards E, lay off
your 5th No. (viz.) 7-8 of an inch, which will
reach to figure 5, then make a dot. Then take

17

your back again, place the. corner representee
at figure 3, on the dot at figure 5, on the fore-
part, and measure off the distance between 3 and
4, from 5 towards E, and make a dot, as seen at
E. Then draw a line from this dot to the dot at
figure 2, make a dot half way, as seen on the
draft ; then lay your square thereon in such a
manner, as to have the corner lie exactly on the
dot, at the middle of the line, and the other arm
extending to the right; by this arm lay off the
6th No. from the table (viz.) 7-8 of an inch, and
make a dot, as at figure 6, on the draft. Theft
laying your square on the line A, Br. the corner
thereof resting at figure I, with one arm extend-
ing to the left, lay off thereby your 7th No,
which is 1 1-4 inches as to the figure 7, you will
then round the shoulder, as seen at 5, E, accord-
ing to the draft, and mark out the arm size as
you see done on the draft, making the dots made
at 6, 2 and 7, your guide. Then taking the meas-
ure of your collar, which was 5 inches, lay it oft
as seen from the figure 5 to the letter F ; on the
line E, F, make F your center to strike the
curve 5, G, for the neck. Then take the back,
lay it on the cloth, so that the corner at C shall
rest on B. on the forepart ; measure off one half
the size around the waist, (viz.) 24 inches, one
half of which is 12 inches, which will extend to
H. Then, by your rule, draw the line from H,
past Br, to intersect the curve line at G. You
will allow for the lap and lappelle, and strike
the curve for the buttons, according to your
fancy. Then mark for the pocketlid, by placing
one end of your cord at the middle of the should
D

18

der, and strike a short eurve as seen at No. 4, You
will next lay your square on the out side breast
line, with one arm extending aerost the waist,
mark the line H, I, for the bottom of the waist ;
no particular rule will be necessary for the
length of this line, a? you may vary it according
to fashion* In the next place lay off the skirts as
seen on the draft which, according to your meas-
ure, is to be 12 inches long; the fold will be the
same width as the back ; the slant of the skirt
will be determined by your taste or by the
fashion*

2i

Having thus disposed of die forepart, we will,
in the next place, cut the

SLEEFE.

It will be most convenient to begin this part
of the garment on that edge next to you.

You will, first, make a dot where vou intend
to have the fop of the sleeve, as at figure 1, on
the draft. Then lay your rule thereon, so tlmt
the 1st No, from the table, under title sleeve for
this garment, (viz. ,312 inches, shall lie on the
dot, and that length of the ruie extending to the
right, because you measured for the sleeve to the
middle seam in the back. Lay off your measure
for the sleeve, from thence to the elbow, which
is 13 inches, extending as to A, on the draft.
I hen, before you move your rule, make a dot
on the line as far as your 2d No. for the sleeve,
(viz.) 6 1-2 inches, as at figure 2. Then turn
your rule at the elbow, as seen on the draft, and
Jay off the length from thence to the wrist, which
is 7 inches as to B. Thenlay your square on the
line I, A, with the corner at the dot at 2, and
one arm extending past C, lay off half the meas-
ure around the shoulder, which is 6 inches, as to
C, and draw the line as from 2 to C. Then turn
the corner of your square to A, one arm lying
on the line towards 2, the other extending past
-U, lay off half the measure around the elbow,
which is 4 1-4 inches, as to 1), make a dot. Then
laying one arm on, A, B, with the corner at B

22

lay off as to E, half the measure around the
wrist, which is 4 inches, and draw the line as from
E to D, and make the curve from D to C, accor-
ding to your judgment. Likewise draw the
curves at the top of the sleeve, both for the up-
per and lower part, as seen on the draft.

A surtout, or great coat, may be marked in the
same manner as a common coat, excepting the
outside line, on the forepart, which is continued
down the required length of the garment, and
the folds are narrower in a surtout than in a
great coat, and the skirt is slanted off, as seen on
the draft, by the dotted line 8. For a great coat,
you must fetch the arm hole up to the corner
A, and mark from that corner down, according
to the slant of the dotted line Gr.

In cutting the back for a great coat, you will
fold your cloth so asto cut it whole, and observe
the same rules as in a strait bodied coat for the
shoulder, or that part above the line 2, 5. Then
laying your rule one end on 5, draw the line 5,
G, as seen on the draft, which must be of the
same slant, as the line Gr, on the draft for the
forepart.

A vest may be cut, by the same rule, by va-
rying it a little from a coat, but it will be easier
to cut this garment by pattern than by the rule ;
as patterns for vests, capes, collars, &c. are easi-
ly obtained, it is recommended to cut them gen-
erally by patterns.

It pjill readily be seen by any person, who
UOFC.

23

hras any acquaintance with the rules here laid
down, that they may, with the greatest ease, be
varied, according to the fashion. The back and
shoulder being made wider or longer, and the
shape of the other parts altered, according to
fancy.

>

N. B. The drafts which are found in this

work, are drawn from a scale of four inches to
an inch : or in other words, one quarter of ao
inch, is called an inch.

itable of proportioning Numbers*

ftg-BSgHSW-J-i U 1 . . =-' ■

For a Person || BACK j|

FOREPART. II

SLEEVE. 1

MEASURING FRO;.I|| 1st

2nd | 3rd | 4th j 5ih ||

1st | 2nd | 3rd

4th j 5th | 6th | .7th ||

1st | 2nd j

21 to 22 Inches, ||2 3-4

1 1-4 | 1 7-8 j 3 | 3 1-8||

5 3-8 j 7 1-8 | 5 1-8

2 5-8 | 7-8 1 7-8 | 1 1-4||

3 1-8 1

5 3-4

e" i-8 1

22 1-2 to 23 1-2||2 7-8 | 1 3-8 | 2 j 3 1-8 | S 1-4||

5 3-4) 7 5-8 | 5 1-2

2 3-4 | 7-8 | 7-8 | 1 1-4||

3 1-4 |

24 to 25 ||3 1-8 J J. 3-8 j 2 1-8 j 3 3-8 j 3 1-2||

6 1-8 j 8 1-8 I 5 7-8

3 j 7-8 | 7-8 | 1 1-4||

3 1-2 j 6 1-2 j

25 1-2 to 26 1-2||S 1-4

1 Jr2 j 2 1-8 | 3 5-8 | 3 3-4||

6 1-2 j 8 5-8 | 6 1-8

3 1-8| 7-8 | 1 | 1 3-811

5 3-4] 6 7-8 |

27 to 28 ||3 3-8

1 5-8 | 2 1-4 ! 3 7-8 | 4 ||

6 7-8 | 9 1-8 j 6 1-2

3 1-4 | 1 | 1 1-8 | 1 1-2||

4 |7 3-8

1 28 1-2 to 29 1-2||3 5-8

1 5-8 | 2 1-4 : j 4 | 4 1-8||

7 1-4 | 9 5-8 j 6 7-8

3 1-2 | 1 j 1 1-8 | 1 I-2||

4 1-8 J 7 3-4

30 to 31 ||3 3-4

1 6-8 | 2 3-8 4 1-8 j 4 3-8||

7 5-8 | 10 1-8

7 1-4
7 1-2

3 5-8 | 1 1-8 | 1 1-81 1 5-8||
3 7-8 | 1 1-8 T ri-4~| 1 3-4||

4 3-8 1 8 1-8

4 5-8 | 8 1-2 !

31 1-2 to 32 1-2||3 7-8 | 1 7-8 | 2 1-2.4 3-8 | 4 5-8||

8 j 10 5-8

33 to 34 |j4 1-8 j 1 7-8 | 2 5-8 4 1-2 | 4 3-4||

8 3-8 j 11 1-8

7 7-8

4 | 1 1-8 ! 1 1-4 | 1 3-4||

4 3-4 | 8 7-8 !

i £4 1-2 to 35 1-2||4 3-8 | 2 | 3 3-4 4 3-4 j 5 ||

8 3-4 | 1 1 5-8

8 1-4

4 1-4

1 1-8 | 1 1-4 | 1 3-4||

5 j 9 1-4

3o to 37 ||4 5-8 j 2 | 2 3-4 | 5 | 5 1-4||

9 1-8 | 12 1-8

8 5-8

4 3"8

1 1-8 113-811 7»Sf|

5 1-4) 9 5-8

5 1-2 J 10 1-8

37 1-2 to 38 1-2||4 6-8

2 1-8 | 2 7-8 5 1-4 | 5 1-2||
21-4 3 5 3-8 j 5 5-8||

0 1-2 | 12 5-8
9 7-8 | 13 1-8

8 7-8

9 1-4

4 5-8
4 3-4

1 1-8 | 1 3-8 | 1 f-S|j

39 to 40 |j4 7-8

11-8|1 3-S j 1 7-8||

5 5-8 | 10 1-2

40 1-2 to 41 1-2|I5 | 2 3-8 | 3 1-8 5 5-8 | 5 7-8||

10 1-4 j 13 5-8

9 5-8

5 | I 1-4 | 1 1-2 | 2 ||

5 7-8 | 10 7-8

42 to Ao |J5 1-8 j 2 3-8 J 3 1-8 i 5 7-8 | 6 1-8||

10 5-8 | 14 1-8 | 9 7-8

5 1-8 | 1 1-4 | 1 1-2 | 2 j|

6 1-3 | 11 1-4

43 1-2 to 44 1-2||5 J-4 | 2 1-2 | 3 1-4 6 | 6 1-4||

11 | 14 5-8 | 10 1-4

5 S-8 | 1 1-4 ! 1 5-8 | 2 i-8|)

6 1-4 | 11 5-8

j 45 to 46 ||5 S-8J 2 5-8 | 3 3-8 6 1-8 | 6 1-2||

11 3^8 | 15 1-8 | 1.0 1-2

5 1-2 | 1 1-4 | 1 5-8 J 2 l-a||

6 1-2

12 ]

! 46 1-2 to 47 1-2||5 1-2

2 5-8J3 1-2 I 6 3-8 | 6 3-4||

11 3-4 | 15 5-8 j 10 7-8

5 3-4 j 1 3-8 | 1 3-4 j 2 l-4|j

6 3-4

12 3-8 1

* 48 to 49 ||5 5-8

2 3-4 j 3 1-2 6 5-8 | 7 ||

12 1-8 j 16 1-8
12 1-2 j 16 5-8

11

5 7-8

6 1-8
6 1-4

1 3-8 | 1 7-8 j 2 3-8f|

7 | 12 3-4 |

J 49 1-2 to 50 i-2||5 3-4 | 2 7-8 | 3 5-8 j 6 3-4 | 7 1-8||

11 1-8

1 1-2 ] 1 7-8 | 2 1-2||

7 1-8

13 1-8

51 to 52 . ||5 7-8 | 2 7-8 | 3 3-4 7 \7 3-8||

12 7-8 | 17 1-8 | 11 3-8

1 1-2 | 2 | 2 1-2||

7 3-8

I

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I

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3*.

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